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Intro to the Azores: One week on Saõ Miguel Island
Published on May 20, 2025
It started over a bottle of wine and conversation that went something like: “Have you ever heard of the Azores?” “The what?” “They’re supposedly this beautiful group of Portuguese islands in the middle of the Atlantic, and there’s a direct flight from our city!”. Not long after, our flights were booked and bags were packed. That girls’ night conversation turned out to be surprisingly productive. The trip was incredible, and Saõ Miguel Island was unlike anything we’d ever experienced. Our most repeated phrase quickly became: “The pictures just don’t do it justice”.
Day 1
Visiting Saõ Miguel in early April, we knew the weather could be unpredictable – so we went in with a flexible plan, and were glad we did! Our first day didn’t go as expected, but was a great start to the trip nonetheless.
After landing early in the morning and picking up our car (I highly recommend renting a car when visiting), we drove straight to our first accommodation, which was one of the loveliest places I’ve stayed while traveling. Our host welcomed us with a generous spread of breakfast items and snacks, and the home itself had a beautiful view of the ocean, a spacious backyard, and two friendly outdoor cats that became a source of nightly entertainment.
With grey, drizzling skies above and jetlag kicking in, we opted for a low-key activity to start the day: a visit to the Gorreana Tea Factory. There, we sat on a patio overlooking lush tea fields and the ocean, sipping free cups of locally made tea. While at the factory, you can also enjoy lunch, roam the tea fields, or experience a guided tour of the facility. In classic Azorean fashion, the fog suddenly lifted and the skies cleared. We quickly learned that these dramatic shifts in weather are part of what makes the Azores so unique!
To take advantage of the sunshine, we headed to the town of Vila Franca do Campo and drove up to Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Paz, a hilltop chapel with panoramic views of the landscape, ocean, and the Iléu de Vila Franca. After taking in the view, we headed down to get a closer look. We booked this tour of the islet, which got us up close to the islet in a small zodiac-style boat. We learned about its volcanic origins and the current conservation efforts to protect it. Note: if you get seasick or dislike fast and bumpy boat rides, this is not the activity for you! If you prefer to visit the islet in a different way, there are also kayaking tours and tours focused on geology and ecology available.
After getting a taste of what the island had to offer, we called it an early night to catch up on sleep and restore our energy for the adventures ahead.
Day 2
One of the best decisions we made when planning this trip was booking this full-day jeep tour using a website that offers a variety of tours and activities in the Azores. It was great to be guided by a local expert and to enjoy the sights and experiences without thinking about planning or navigating there ourselves. If you prefer exploring at your own pace, I highly recommend incorporating all of the key stops from tour into your own itinerary: visiting Sete Cidades, the Vista do Rei viewpoint, Lagoa do Fogo, and the Caldeira Velha hot springs.
Between stops, we encountered situations that felt distinctly “Saõ Miguel”, like being held up in traffic by cows crossing the road. When I say I’m certain we saw a typical lifetime quota of cows each and every day during our trip, I’m not exaggerating! So. Many. Cows! Another unexpected encounter was witnessing the Romeiros de São Miguel, a traditional religious pilgrimage that takes place during Lent, where groups of men walk for days visiting all the churches around the island, singing and praying as they go. We happened to be visiting at the right time to catch a glimpse of this tradition in action, and encountered these groups multiple times during the week. Note: If you happen to be driving by, it’s customary to pull over and wait until they’ve passed to continue driving.
After a full day of exploring, we wrapped things up with dinner at A Tasca, a popular spot in Ponta Delgada that serves traditional Portuguese food.
Day 3
We woke up on our third day to unfortunate weather and the disappointing news that our planned whale watching excursion had been cancelled due to continued rough sea conditions. Given the forecast, we decided to prioritize the indoor activity options we had on our list of things to do. But first, we made a very important stop: restocking our supply of Bolos Lêvedos, a soft and slightly sweet Azorean bread. Our host had left us some to try, and we immediately fell in love. You can enjoy it plain, toasted with butter or jam, or turned into a sandwich with cheese and ham for something more savoury. Regardless, this bread is delicious and absolutely worth trying while you’re on the island. I loved it so much that I even brought some home with me!
Next up was one of the more unique experiences you can have in the Azores: visiting local pineapple plantations. São Miguel is actually the only place in Europe where pineapples are grown commerically. Our first stop was Plantação Ananases A Arruda, where we walked through greenhouses filled with pineapples in all stages of growth. After our self-guided tour, we sampled pineapple juice, liqueur, and a tart in their cozy café. Just down the road is another pineapple plantation, Plantação de Ananás dos Açores, which also has greenhouses you can explore, along with a small on-site restaurant. We had a sandwich featuring pineapple jam, some fresh pineapple, and even tried a glass of pineapple beer – all surprisingly tasty!
Due to the continued rain (and even some hail!), we squeezed in one last indoor activity: a visit to Gruta do Carvão, an ancient lava tube and one of the island’s geological highlights. Although their tours typically require booking in advance, we were lucky to walk in and get the last two tickets available for a 30-minute tour of the cave.
We ended the day with dinner at Taberna na Boavista, a local spot we really enjoyed, and the perfect way to warm up after a rainy day.
Day 4
To make up for the rainy day prior, we we eager to spend as much time outdoors as possible, and this day was all about soaking up Saõ Miguel’s stunning views. As we drove around, we stopped at several of the island’s many “miradouros” (lookout points). These viewpoints are often marked by signs and are usually just a quick turn off the main roads, making them easy to incorporate into your planning or to take advantage of spontaneously.
Some of the most memorable miradouros we visited include Vista do Rei and Miradouro do Pico da Barrosa, which offer sweeping views of volcanic lakes and lush landscapes. Two others we loved were Ponta do Sossego, with its beautifully landscaped gardens, and Santa Iria, which offers a panoramic coastal view that makes you feel like you’re at the Earth’s edge.
Our next stop of the day was the town of Furnas, which is famous for its geothermal activity. In Furnas, you’ll see steam rising from the ground, smell sulfur in the air, and can even watch locals cook the traditional Cozido das Furnas, a stew slow-cooked underground using volcanic heat. It’s fascinating and another one of those “only in the Azores” kind of places.
We then made our way to Faial da Terra and set off on a beautiful hike to Cascata do Salto do Prego, a waterfall tucked deep into a forest. The trail is relatively short and you’ll likely have a few squawking chickens trailing behind you along the way. On the way back, you have the option to take a different path that leads you to a tiny, remote village containing Bar Loja, a small bar with a view overlooking the town and ocean below. A cold drink there after our hike was much needed!
We stopped at a couple more viewpoints on our way back home, and ended the evening with dinner and drinks at Forte Terrace. This restaurant is set within the walls of an old seaside fort, offering a unique and historic atmosphere, as well as excellent cocktails and service. It was the perfect way to wind down after this adventure-filled day!
Day 5
After moving to a new accommodation in Ponta Delgada, the capital city of Saõ Miguel, we started the morning with coffee at a local café. Then, with our bathing suits in tow, we headed to Ponta da Ferraria, a stunning natural thermal pool located on the island’s western coast, where volcanic heat warms the ocean water. Before going, we made sure to check the tide schedule, since the experience is best enjoyed around low tide, when the thermal pools are most accessible.
After our dip, we spent the afternoon exploring Ponta Delgada and appreciating its architecture, local shops, and the oceanfront promenade. We also picked up a few souvenirs at a boutique called Be Nature, which features locally made products. That evening, we had dinner at one of our favorite restaurants of the entire trip, Louvre Michaelense, a stylish spot with a creative menu and warm ambiance. To finish the night, we stopped in at Ta Gente, a bar with cute decor known for their cocktails. It was the perfect way to wrap up our first day staying in the capital city!
Day 6
On our final full day on São Miguel, we started the morning with a visit to the Jardim Botânico António Borges, located just a short walk from the heart of Ponta Delgada. These botanical gardens are beautifully maintained and home to a wide variety of trees, plants, and even a few animals. After strolling through, we sat down at the garden’s on-site restaurant, Jardim Natural Food & Coffee, for what turned out to be our favourite breakfast of the entire trip. We loved it so much that we went back again the next morning for one last meal before heading to the airport!
Later in the day, we visited the Porto Formoso Tea Factory, one of the island’s two tea plantations. I especially recommend this stop! It’s a bit less crowded than the Gorreana Tea Factory and offers gorgeous views of the surrounding fields and ocean, as well as information about the traditional tea-making process. Here, you can also sample different varieties of tea while soaking in the peaceful scenery.
For dinner, we kept things simple with a visit to Supléxio, a casual burger spot in Ponta Delgada. We wrapped up our evening by returning one last time to Louvre Michaelense, this time for drinks and dessert. Our final day was an amazing way to close out a trip that was equal parts adventure, relaxation, and unforgettable scenery.
Visiting São Miguel island was an unforgettable experience. The variety of climates and scenery the island has to offer is incredible, and the rapid changes in weather and landscape – from lush forests to dramatic coastlines, and volcanic terrain to cow-filled pastures, really add to its uniqueness. It’s also easy to drive around, making it the perfect destination for a flexible and scenic road trip.
Just a week after returning home, we knew we needed to see more of what these Portuguese islands have to offer. Up next? Madeira.
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