It started over a bottle of wine and conversation that went something like: “Have you ever heard of the Azores?” “The what?” “Well, I’m not sure I’m pronouncing it right, but it’s this beautiful group of islands in the middle of the Atlantic – and there’s a direct flight from our city”. Not long after, our flights were booked and our bags were packed. That girls’ night conversation turned out to be surprisingly productive. The trip was incredible, and Saõ Miguel was unlike anything we’d experienced before. Our most repeated phrase quickly became: “The pictures just don’t do it justice”.
Day One
Visiting Saõ Miguel in early April, we knew the weather could be unpredictable – so we went in with a flexible plan, and we were glad we did! Our first day didn’t go quite as expected, but was a perfect start to the trip nonetheless. When I know weather is going to be a factor, I try to structure my trip itineraries a little differently. More on that here (coming soon!).
After landing early in the morning and picking up our car (I highly recommend renting a car when visiting), we drove straight to our first accommodation, which was one of the loveliest places I’ve stayed while traveling. Our host welcomed us a generous spread of breakfast items and snacks, and the home itself had a beautiful view of the ocean, a spacious backyard, and two friendly outdoor cats that became our nightly entertainment.
With grey and drizzling skies above and jetlag kicking in, we opted for a low-key activity to start the day: a visit to the Gorreana Tea Factory. There, we sat on as patio overlooking lush tea fields and the ocean, sipping free cups of locally made tea. While at the factory, you can also enjoy lunch, roam the tea fields, or experience a guided tour of the facility. In classic Azorean fashion, the foggy view suddenly lifted and the skies cleared. We quickly learned that these dramatic shifts in weather are part of what makes the Azores so unique!
To take advantage of the sunshine, we headed to the town of Vila Franca do Campo and drove up to Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Paz, a gorgeous hilltop chapel with panoramic views of the landscape, ocean, and the Iléu de Vila Franca, an islet formed by the crater of a submerged volcano. After taking in the view from the top, we headed down to take a closer look. We booked this tour of the islet, which got us out on the ocean in a small zodiac-style boat, and up close to the islet. We learned about its volcanic origins and the current conservation efforts to protect it. Note: if you get seasick or dislike fast andbumpy boat rides, this might not be the activity for you!
After getting a taste of what the island had to offer, called it an early night to catch up on sleep rest up for the adventures ahead.
Day Two
One of the best decisions we made when planning was booking this full-day jeep tour. We used a website that offers a variety of tours and activities in the Azores, tailored to all kinds of interests. It was great to be guided by a local expert, which allowed us to enjoy the sights and the experiences without thinking about planning or navigating there ourselves.
If you prefer exploring at your own pace, I highly recommend incorporating all of the key stops from tour into your own itinerary: visiting Sete Cidades, the Vista do Rei viewpoint, Lagoa do Fogo, and the Caldeira Velha hot springs. They are all musts!
Between stops, we also encountered situations that felt distinctly “Saõ Miguel”, like being held up by cows crossing the road (when I say I’m sure we saw a typical lifetime quota of cows each and every day during our trip, I’m not exaggerating! So. Many. Cows!).
Another unexpected encounter was witnessing the Romeiros de São Miguel, a traditional religious pilgrimage that takes place during Lent. Groups of men walk for days visiting all the churches around the island, singing and praying as they go. We happened to visit at just the right time to catch a glimpse of this tradition in action, and encountered these groups multiple times during our week. Note: If you happen to be driving by them, it’s customary to pull over and wait until they’ve passed you to continue driving.
After a full day of exploring, we wrapped things up with dinner at A Tasca, a popular spot in Ponta Delgada serving traditional Portuguese food.
Day Three
We woke up on our third day to unfortunate weather and the disappointing news that our planned whale watching excursion had been postponed (spoiler: it ended up getting cancelled altogether due to continued rough sea conditions). Given the forecast, we decided to prioritize the indoor activity options that were on our list of things to do for the week. But first, we made a very important stop: restocking our supply of Bolos Lêvedos.
Bolos Lêvedos are a soft and slightly sweet Azorean bread, which our host left us to try, and we immediately fell in love. You can enjoy it plain, toasted with butter or jam, or turned into a sandwich with cheese and ham for something more savoury. Either way, this bread is delicious and absolutely worth trying while you’re on the island (I even had to bring some home with me!).
Next up was one of the more unique experiences you can have in the Azores: visiting local pineapple plantations. São Miguel is actually the only place in Europe where pineapples are grown commerically. Our first stop was Plantação Ananases A Arruda, where we walked through greenhouses filled with pineapples in all stages of growth. After our self-guided tour, we sampled pineapple juice, liqueur, and a tart in their cozy café. Just down the road is another pineapple plantation, Plantação de Ananás dos Açores, which also has greenhouses you can explore at your own pace, along with a small on-site restaurant. We had a sandwich featuring pineapple jam, some fresh pineapple, and even tried a glass of pineapple beer – all surprisingly good!
Despite the continued rain (and even some hail!), we squeezed in one last indoor activity: a visit to Gruta do Carvão, an ancient lava tube and one of the island’s geological highlights. Although their tours typically require booking in advance, we were lucky to walk in and get the last two tickets available for a 30-minute tour of the cave.
We ended the day with a cozy dinner at Taberna na Boavista, a local spot we really enjoyed, and the perfect way to warm up and wind down after a rainy, pineapple-filled day.
Day Four
To make up for the rainy day prior, we we eager to spend as much time outdoors as possible, and this day was all about soaking up Saõ Miguel’s stunning views. As we drove around, we stopped at several of the island’s many “miradouros” (lookout points). These scenic viewpoints are often marked by signs and are usually just a quick turn off the main roads, making them easy to incorporate into your planning, or to take advantage of spontaneously.
Some of the most memorable miradouros we visited, and ones I highly recommend, include Vista do Rei and Miradouro do Pico da Barrosa, both of which we were brought to during our Jeep tour, which offered sweeping views of volcanic lakes and lush landscapes. Two others we loved were Ponta do Sossego, with its beautifully landscaped gardens, and Santa Iria, which offers a panoramic coastal view that makes you feel like you’re at the edge of the world.
Our first longer stop of the day was the town of Furnas, which is famous for its geothermal activity. Here, you can see steam rising from the ground, smell the sulfur in the air, and even watch locals cooking the traditional Cozido das Furnas, a stew slow-cooked underground using volcanic heat. It’s fascinating and another one of those “only in the Azores” kind of places.
We then made our way to the town of Faial da Terra, where we parked and set off on a beautiful hike to Cascata do Salto do Prego, a waterfall tucked deep into the forest. The trail is relatively short and you’ll likely have a few squawaking chickens trailing behind you along the way. On the way back, you have the option to take a different path that leads you to a tiny, remote village. We ended the hike at Bar Loja, a small bar located right in the village that has seating with a view overlooking the town and oean below. A cold drink there after the hike was much needed.
We continued our drive through the island, stopping at more viewpoints along the way, and ended the evening with dinner and drinks at Forte Terrace. This unique restaurant is set within the walls of an old seaside fort, offering a cozy and historic atmosphere, and excellent cocktails and service. It was the perfect way to end this adventure-filled day.
Day Five
After moving to a new accommodation in Ponta Delgada, the capital city of Saõ Miguel, we kicked off the morning with coffee at a local café just steps from where we were staying. Then, with our bathing suits in tow, we headed to Ponta da Ferraria, a stunning natural thermal pool located on the island’s western coast, where volcanic heat warms ocean water. Before going, we made sure to check the tide schedule, since the experience is best enjoyed around low tide, when the thermal waters are most accessible.
After our dip, we spent the afternoon exploring Ponta Delgada and appreciating its architecture, inviting shops, the oceanfront promenades. We also picked up a few souvenirs at a lovely boutique called Be Nature, which features locally made products. That evening, we had dinner at one of our favorite restaurants of the entire trip, Louvre Michaelense, a stylish yet cozy spot with a creative menu and warm ambiance. To finish the night, we stopped in at Ta Gente, a bar with cute decor known for their cocktails. It was the perfect way to wrap up our first day staying in the city!
Day 6
On our final full day in São Miguel, we started the morning with a visit to the Jardim Botânico António Borges (botanical gardens), located just a short walk from the heart of Ponta Delgada. The gardens are beautifully maintained home to a wide variety of trees, plants, and even a few animals. After strolling through the gardens, we sat down for what turned out to be our favourite breakfast of the entire trip at the garden’s on-site restaurant, Jardim Natural Food & Coffee. We loved it so much that we ended up coming back again the next morning for one last breakfast before heading to the airport!
Later in the day, we visited the Porto Formoso Tea Factory, one of the island’s two tea plantations and one we hadn’t made it to earlier in the trip. I especially recommend this stop! It’s a bit less touristy, and offers beautiful views of the surrounding fields and ocean, and gives a great insight into the traditional tea-making process. You can also sample different varieties of tea while soaking in the scenery.
For dinner, we kept things simple with a visit to Supléxio, a casual burger spot in Ponta Delgada. We wrapped up our evening (and the trip!) by returning one last time to Louvre Michaelense, this time for drinks and dessert. Our final day was the perfect way to close out a trip that was equal parts adventure, relaxation, and unforgettable scenery.
Visiting São Miguel was an unforgettable experience. The variety of climates and scenery the island has to offer is incredible, and the rapid changes in weather and landscape – from lush forests to dramatic coastlines, and volcanic terrain to cow-filled pastures, really add to its uniqueness. It’s also easy to drive around, making it the perfect destination for a flexible and scenic road trip.
Just a week after returning home, we knew we needed to see more of what these Portuguese islands have to offer. Up next? Madeira. Stay tuned.
